Frilled Neck Lizards
Chlamydosaurus Kingii – category 4
- UVA/UVB Lighting
- Day heat globe
- Water bowl
Dragons can live for up to 20 years in captivity
You require a license issued by the department of parks and wild life see above for the category of license required.
Frilled neck lizards can reach 95cm in length from head to tail, can weigh up to 500grms and diameter of the frill can reach 20 -25 cm. They are fairly active diurnal lizards that like to climb. Enclosures therefore need to reflect the animal’s size and type of activity required. An enclosure for one adult frilled neck should be a minimum of 4 foot high by 3 foot wide. Customs built enclosures are a good option as you can build the biggest enclosure you possibly can. At place road pets they are many options to choose from and a friendly sales consultant can answer any of your questions you may have. Frilled necks spend a lot of time in tress in the wild, so furnishing the enclosure with lots of tall vertical climbing branches that will of course support the animals body weight.
Commercially cleaned and packaged sand is suitable for adult frilled neck lizards however; very young lizards can accidentally ingest sand when they eat causing compaction (causing constipation from ingesting sand). Either using paper substrate or by hand feeding the animal outside of the enclosure can avoid this. Red pindan sand is available in store here at place road pets with a range of colour sand also available including reptile calcium sand that can be used as the finally top layer to the floor.
Humidity and water
Humidity levels of 50 – 70 % should be provided and you can do this by supplying the enclosure with a larger enough water bowl that the animal could bathe in (but shallow enough for very young dragons). If humidity levels become too high, respiratory problems may occur.
Temperature and lighting
Place a basking lamp at one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the dragons to heat up and cool off, as they require. The hot spot should be approximately 35 -38 degrees with the cool end approximately 24 – 27 degrees. If temperatures are likely to drop below 18 degrees overnight, use a night heat lamp or ceramic heat emitter that gives off little light but enough heat to keep the dragon warm on cool/cold nights.
The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used and sometimes combinations of lights are needed to get the right amount of heat needed. Here at place road pets we strongly suggest considering using mercury vapour bulbs that are basking and UV lights all in one. A definite daylight cycle of lighting should be provided, either manually or automatically using an electrical timer. Use a full spectrum UVA/UVB tube as well for 10 hours a during winter and 12 hours during summer each day to provide the right amount of vitamin D3 (essential for healthy bone structure).
Frilled neck lizards are omnivores, which means they eat both meat and vegetables. They eat a lot of food as they get a lot of their moisture requirements from their diet. You should wait at least an hour after the heat lamp comes on before feeding, and feed them at least 2 hours before the heat light goes off giving them plenty of time to digest their food properly. They can be feed live crickets, large meal worms, pinkie mice, roaches, cooked eggs and canned reptile food. You can also feed them a mixture of tinned cat food (no fish)
With grated carrot and finely chopped lettuce. Gut load insects before feeding. Dust pinkies and insects with calcium supplement powder every day for juveniles and every second day for adults. These lizards grow fairly quickly and UVB and calcium are essential for healthy bone development or they run the risk of getting metabolic bone disease. Feed hatchlings and juveniles twice a day and adults once a day.
Frilled neck lizards have very strong personalities and are naturally curious. Young ones can be shy at first but they warm up to their keepers quickly. When handling them, place the bulk of their body in your palm with your hand and forearm held as a tree for the animal to grip. However they may prefer to sit on your shoulder instead or head for that matter. Remember their claws are fairly long and sharp for climbing. If startled, they could inflict nasty scratches. Always-Wash hands before and after handling your pet dragon.
Thermometer – to help monitor ideal heat requirements
Reptile hand sanitizer – hand cleaner that removes the bacteria and other contaminants off your hands. Always use before and after handling your reptile.
Multivitamins and calcium – mixed in with fresh food or dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.
Gut load- to fully nourish insects before feeding off.
Worm rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper, especially if providing furniture from the bush.